Into Tse Bii' Ndzisgaii

Monument Valley

 

If you stand still long enough, squint, and gaze into the distance, you might just imagine a dust plume trailing behind a galloping stagecoach, its four horses tearing across the valley floor beneath the shadow of a towering butte. Hot on its tail, a troop of U.S. Cavalry appears, led by a familiar figure—a silhouette straight out of a Saturday afternoon matinee. Could it be? Is that…? Yes, it’s him! The man, the myth, the legend… Wait, permit me this indulgence in fantasy.

You see, I grew up watching John Ford classics like Stagecoach and Fort Apache, with their epic black-and-white panoramas of Monument Valley. This place isn’t just a pretty landscape; it’s cinematic history. Known to the Navajo as Tse Bii’ Ndzisgaii, or “Valley of the Rocks,” Monument Valley owes much of its iconic status to Ford, who not only championed this remarkable place in his films but was singularly instrumental in bringing the plight of the Navajo to the American populatioon as a whole, but also the U.S. Government. And boy, did he have good taste.

 

On the way to Monument Valley

 

Arriving here, you have two options: you can admire the buttes from the comfort of the Navajo Welcome Center (boring), or you can brave the valley floor by driving "the loop" (adventurous, foolish, or both). Naturally, I went for "the loop".

Let me warn you, the loop isn’t for the faint of heart or the faint of car. 

The first 100 yards greet you with a 45-degree slope of soft red soil that challenges even SUVs. Now imagine what your average sedan endures. Once you conquer that, the washboard road awaits—enough bumps and rattles to loosen your fillings. Luckily, the welcome center has a dentist on hand for emergency repairs, and the Navajo towing service is ready to haul away your vehicle when its suspension inevitably surrenders.

And then there’s the dust. Oh, the dust! By the end of the 1.5-hour journey, every vehicle looks like it’s been dipped in paprika. Tourists who wisely opt for open-air guided tours wear dust masks as if they’re prepping for a Martian apocalypse. The red dust infiltrates everything—your eyes, nose, ears, hair, and, worst of all, your camera. Switching lenses here? Bold move. A single lens may not cover all your photography needs, but left attached at least it won’t allow your camera’s sensor to turn into a gritty souvenir.

Did I mention the dust?

 

Dust aside, Monument Valley is absolutely worth it. The buttes are breathtaking, towering over you from all directions—front, back, left, and right. At every turn, visitors hop out of their cars to snap photos, check emails (really?), or take selfies. Some are capturing the majesty of the landscape, while others…well, who knows what they’re doing.

Typical family scene. At least this group left their vehicle, many don't.

Cars on "the loop"

The point from which John Ford shot many of his scenes

 

Buttes and a very old tree

At the famed John Ford lookout, where the director filmed many of his iconic shots, an entrepreneurial Navajo man was renting out his horse for photo ops. Nothing says “authentic Western experience” like posing in cowboy boots and jeans, perched on a horse, with the majestic buttes as your backdrop. Genius, really.

 

The tourist just eat this kind of thing up.  One more step backwards and Dad will be a goner.

I couldn’t stop photographing the place. The way the light changes, minute by minute, transforms the landscape into something entirely new. After sunset, while most people dashed back to their cars (and their iPhones, which can’t handle long exposures like a proper DSLR), I stayed behind. Shooting the buttes in the fading light was magical. The valley whispered softly in the breeze as headlights from the last vehicles snaked their way out. It was surreal, almost otherworldly. No wonder the Navajo guard this place with such passion.

"The Mittens" Before sunset

"The Mittens" After Sunset

For those interested as to how these marvels came about here is a brief explanation.  Not being a geologist I cannot vouch for the complete accuracy of my information but from what I've read it's not too far off the mark.

If nothing else moves you about this place perhaps the knowledge that you are standing at the foot of giants whose creation started 300 million years ago just might have an effect. 

300 million years ago this place was once an inland sea, then 220 million years ago it became a green forest that provided food for early dinosaurs. Sometime around 200 million years ago the climate became aired, the forests and early dinosaurs died out and the area became a desert with 200-foot high sand dunes. Around 160 million years ago the rains came back and the, by now hardened sand dunes disappeared under a lake. By 110 million years ago the early dinosaurs have all died and others replaced them. At this point, the weather here was similar to northern California, mild and wet and the first flowers appeared. About 100 million years ago an ocean slowly started to creep back in and kept rising for 10 million years until 2000 feet of water covered the region.  Around 75 million years ago the ocean started to recede and soon the sandstone buttes were above the water again.  About 65 million years ago a lake returned and the Rocky Mountains started to push up.  Around 35 million years ago the lake got pushed out and the Rocky's crew higher. Only within the past 10,000 years did the climate become what it is today. 

Monument Valley isn’t just a destination; it’s an experience. Dusty, bumpy, and maybe even a little uncomfortable, but wholly unforgettable. Just be sure to pack your sense of adventure—and a dust mask.

More to come…